Author: Dr Amanda Oakley, Dermatologist, Hamilton, New Zealand, 1999. Reviewed and updated by Dr Amanda Oakley; Vanessa Ngan, Staff Writer, February 2014.
Treatment of acne depends on its severity — mild, moderate or severe.
General principles of treatment
Acne can be effectively treated, although the response may sometimes be slow.
Where possible, avoid excessively humid conditions such as a sauna, working in an unventilated kitchen or tropical vacations.
Consider a low-glycaemic, low-protein and low-dairy diet (note that the evidence that this helps is weak). Avoid protein or amino acid supplements, particularly if they contain leucine. Eat plenty of fresh fruit and vegetables.
Most patients with mild acne can be treated with topical treatment (gels, solutions and lotions) that can be obtained over-the-counter in New Zealand without prescription. Most people just use topical agents for facial skin as they can be difficult to apply to one's back. Extra vitamins and minerals have not been proved to help.
Wash affected areas twice daily with a mild cleanser and water or an antiseptic wash.
Acne products should be applied to all areas affected by acne, rather than just put on individual spots.
A thin smear should only be applied to dry clean skin at nighttime.
Acne products may work better if applied in the morning as well.
They often cause dryness particularly in the first 2–4 weeks of use. This is partly how they work. The skin usually adjusts to this.
Apply an oil-free moisturiser only if the affected skin is obviously peeling.
Avoid applying oily cosmetics such as foundation or sunscreen.
It may take several weeks or even months to see convincing improvement.
Discontinue using a product if severe irritation results. See your doctor for advice.
Suitable topical agents for mild acne that can be obtained without a prescription include:
Antiseptic washes with triclosan or benzoyl peroxide
Mild salicylic acid preparations to exfoliate and unplug the follicles
Tea tree oil, bee venom, polyphenols and other products for which evidence of efficacy is limited.
Topical agents for mild acne which require a prescription include:
Antibiotics, such as clindamycinsolution, or erythromycin solution and gel, which are best used with benzoyl peroxide or azelaic acid to reduce the chance of antibiotic resistance
Retinoids include tretinoin, isotretinoin, adapalene, trifarotene; in some countries, adapalene is available without a prescription.
Combination prescription topicals include clindamycin/benzoyl peroxide and adapalene/benzoyl peroxide gel.
Lights and lasers including blue light have been found to be safe and helpful for mild to moderate acne when oral medications are unhelpful or unsuitable.
See your doctor or dermatologist for advice if your pimples fail to clear up within six weeks or you have severe acne.
Treatment of moderately severe acne
Treatment for moderately severe acne usually includes the topical agents described above. In addition, oral medication may be prescribed, usually for at least 3–6 months.
Oral antiandrogens, such as low-dose cyproterone (in combination with oestrogen), and/or spironolactone, particularly if there are signs of hyperandrogenism
The topical antiandrogen, clascoterone, for acne vulgaris
Short-term use of nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory agents such as ibuprofen or naproxen
Oral isotretinoin for resistant or persistent acne.
When oral antibiotics are discontinued, control should be maintained long-term by continuing topical therapy.
Treatment of severe acne
Treatment for severe acne requires oral treatment. Patients should be under the care of a dermatologist.
Many patients will be treated with oral isotretinoin.
The following may also be prescribed:
High dose oral antibiotics for six months or longer
In females, especially those with polycystic ovary syndrome, oral antiandrogens such as oestrogen/cyproterone or spironolactone may be suitable long-term
The topical antiandrogen, clascoterone, for acne vulgaris
Sunlight is anti-inflammatory and can help briefly. However, exposure to ultraviolet radiation results in skin ageing and can eventually lead to skin cancer.
Lasers and other light systems using visible light wavelengths appear safe and helpful for acne. Treatment is often delivered twice weekly for four weeks. The effect may be enhanced by the use of a photosensitising agent (photodynamic therapy).
Cryotherapy (freezing treatment) may be useful to control new nodules.